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Puppy
How is the Saluki around children? Other pets? As a watchdog?
The Saluki can be
quite tolerant of children and can be accused of "licking the baby"
too much. As with any breed the temperament of the puppy in question
can determine how it will interact with children. Salukis can be
territorial while claiming "their" children and protecting them from
a "Saluki-perceived" harm. They can be protective of other pets in
the household as well. In the Middle-East they have been used as
flock guardians. This does not mean that they can be trained as
watch/guard dogs like a Doberman or Rottweiler. It is from the
Saluki's sense of loyalty and companionship to their owner that this
tendency can be attributed. Salukis can be temperamental and will
become quite emotionally attached to their owners.
Are they noisy? Do they have any bad habits?
Salukis tend to
bark only when there is something worthwhile to bark at (unless one
has fallen into bad habits out of boredom). They are very athletic,
easily able to clear high fences unless the owner has taken proper
precautions to see that this does not occur. They are not usually
nuisance diggers, but can create large pits to escape summer heat if
left out of doors. Also, if not exercised enough, your Saluki may
excavate your backyard and garden into W.W.II sized foxholes.
Is the Saluki a good house-dog?
The Saluki is an
extremely clean dog with little to no odor, and minimal shedding due
to the short coat. In general, a Saluki kept indoors sheds a little
all year round. Salukis are not generally thought of as outside dogs
and they tend to not do well in that kind of situation.
They do not
drool, except in anticipation of food. They are generally easy to
house train. They will take over the furniture unless their owners
discourage this habit from puppy hood. A happily wagging tail will
easily clear off low coffee tables.
Many Saluki
owners have learned the "seven foot rule"; if you don't want the
hound to get whatever the item is (butter on the counter, leftovers
on the stove, the roast thawing on the counter) put it out of reach
-- at least seven feet from the floor.
Are there any special feeding problems?
Some Salukis can
be finicky in their eating habits and periodically fast. Most
Salukis eat less than other breeds of dog and drink less as well.
This is evident in Arabian horses and camels as well. One of the
most often heard questions by a Saluki owner is "Don't you feed that
dog? It's so skinny; I can see its bones." The answer is --Yes, I do
feed it. All that wants. It also runs approximately 35 mph. Salukis
and sight hounds in general have the smallest amount of body fat of
all the dog breeds. When spayed or neutered they may gain weight and
the coat may become fuzzy.
Are there any special medical problems?
Due to lack of
body fat, Salukis are sensitive to anesthetic agents. This is true
of most, if not all, the sight hounds. They also can have reactions
and intolerances to some worming and flea products. In particular,
the wormer known as TASK is not recommended for use on Greyhounds.
As a general rule if the label states not recommended for use on
Greyhounds don't use it on a Saluki.
The #1 cause of
death in Salukis is Hit by Car.
Thyroid: Some
Salukis may be affected by low thyroid function. This can be
detected by blood tests and can be corrected by oral medication.
This condition may be seen in older animals whose hormone level has
decreased, and also in neutered animals.
Cancer: Cancer
has been reported at an increasing rate; many of the animals
affected have been at 4 yrs of age.
Heart Conditions:
The Saluki is a tremendous athlete; if given the opportunity to
fulfill his hunting instincts, the heart may become enlarged.
As with any
breed, regular annual checkups and proper follow up with diet and
medication (if necessary) are recommended.
How much exercise does a Saluki need?
Salukis love to
run. They will run just for the thrill of it. One to two miles or
more at a time. They can make excellent jogging companions. In the
Middle-East Salukis were and are kept by the Bedouins, a pastoral
nomadic people, and thus would travel numerous miles over the yearly
trek.
Are they energetic or hyper? Are they high-strung?
A young Saluki
can be a very energetic fellow. In general, they mature into lovely
calm dogs. Salukis have an instinct to chase moving objects and they
can learn what is acceptable to chase and what is not. As a general
rule, at the age of two they begin to settle down and continue to
mellow significantly each following year.
What were Salukis originally used for?
Salukis were and
are bred in Middle-East as a hunting/companion/guard dog. They
primarily hunt by sight and to a much lesser degree by smell, and
thus are very aware of their surroundings. Salukis have keen
hearing, but when in pursuit of "game" exhibit "selective deafness"
(which is usually infuriating to the owner who is calling their
hound at the top of their lungs with no noticeable result). When the
dog has stopped running and is standing still is the time to attract
the dog's attention by both calling it and making waving motions
with your arms. Their native quarry includes hare, gazelle, and
bustard.
Materials are
from:
http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/salukis.html
Because of its
independent, yet sensitive character, the Saluki is an ideal breed
for people who prefer to relate to their animal companions as
cognitive intelligent beings.
You must want
your salukis to be a member of your family, not merely your dog or
your pet.
You must enjoy
being active as well as relaxing with your Salukis. Lack of
sufficient exercise will negatively affect both mental and physical
fitness.
You must devote
time for consistent training that is positive, loving yet firm, for
best results. Salukis can learn quickly. They respond well when
exposed to kind and thoughtful training methods. Training your
Saluki involves as much self analysis and discipline as it does
interacting with your hound.
You must be
prepared to travel with your Saluki, or find a reliable sitter or
kennel if you cannot. Remember, your Saluki is happiest when with
you.
You must make a
financial commitment to ensure your Saluki's long, happy, healthy
and comfortable life. This means that you must be willing to provide
a permanent home for your Saluki - through tough times as well as
when times are good.
You must be
willing to contact the breeder for help or advice.
Materials are
from:
http://www.salukicanada.com/
The Saluki is a
proud animal with great depth of character and personality.
Salukis are truly a family hound and will not be happy if he cannot
share family life. It is important that Saluki puppies be well
socialized because they can have the tendency, having been bred for
aloofness and independence, to be shy with strange people, places
and animals. A well socialized saluki is comfortable almost
anywhere. Very little physical punishment is ever necessary
for a misbehaving Saluki. Their feelings are highly sensitive
and for this reason, repetition of punishment for the same
misdemeanor is seldom necessary. You may be shocked to know that
Salukis hold a grudge if reprimanded and they will let you know for
the next hour or so that you have insulted them. Oddly enough, if
they've been punished for something which they know is not
acceptable, they will most certainly apologize with a great deal of
tail wagging.
Salukis are
considered a large dog. Once a Saluki puppy has outgrown his
inevitable awkward stage he will readily learn respect for your home
and furniture to become a well behaved considerate houseguest.
Salukis are very gentle and sensitive, enjoy the creature comforts
of domestication and appreciate being allowed on a piece of
furniture but beware of allowing him to usurp this seat from humans
for he may take this as an indication of who's boss. Despite the
Saluki's size they are adept at curling into a tightly wound ball
and will not eat you out of house and home. An adult Saluki's
appetite is quite modest and overweight problems are rare.
Materials are
from:
http://salukiho.tripod.com/
Are you considering a Saluki? Though no breed is
appropriate for every home, the Saluki is not like a Lab, Golden, or
Shepherd, which can work well for a larger variety of homes.
Salukis are exotic,
beautiful, and spirited. They are clean, do not shed much, and draw
lots of attention when taken for a walk in the neighbourhood. But
they are also hunters with thousands of years of purposeful breeding
behind them. They will run after anything that is fuzzy and moves,
and will sometimes catch and kill their targets. Salukis are not to
be trusted off leash in an unsafe area. Also, Salukis are much too
fast and clever to catch if they accidentally sneak out the door.
Salukis tend to sleep on beds, sofas, and chairs rather than on
floors. However, Salukis are the most independently loving creatures
on Godнs Earth. They get under your skin to become an important part of your life.
If you acquire a Saluki, you must prepare to be consumed.
Is your yard fenced? As stressed above,
Salukis can rarely be trusted off leash in a non-enclosed area. A
yard fenced to a height of five feet is recommended, as Salukis can
jump anything less with ease. If you do not have fencing, you must
be prepared to walk your Saluki on leash at all times, and find it a
safe area for regular free running. In other words, you must go
outside during rainstorms, at night, before bed, in your pyjamas,
and you must be willing to drive or walk your Saluki to safe places
to run. Are you prepared for this?
Can Salukis be taught obedience? Yes and no. In a controlled situation, with proper training, most Salukis
can be taught to act in a civilized fashion. But you may not be able
to get your Saluki to return consistently on recall in an open
field, especially if he spots a squirrel.
Do Salukis live a long time? Salukis are
generally a long-lived breed. The number one killer of young Salukis
is "CARS", which is why we stress finding safe areas for them to
run.. A Saluki will routinely reach thirteen years of age, and many
live to be fifteen years or older. Most Salukis eventually die from
standard old age illnesses such as cancer or congestive heart
failure.
Do Salukis do well in crates? Can a Saluki be
crate trained? Salukis can be taught to sleep on dog beds or in
crates if you do not want them in bed with you. Also, teaching any
dog to stay quietly in a crate for short periods can be an effective
tool in keeping your dog safe in travelling, during an illness or
injury when you need to keep him quiet, etc. This is not to be
confused with crating them for long periods of time on a continuous
basis. For example, crating a dog while you are at work all day,
every day, is not a healthy lifestyle for any dog. For the majority
of the day a Saluki needs a larger area it can be contained safely
in, where they can have some form of exercise and play, with access
to an outside fenced area if possible. If your schedule or
facilities do not allow for this, we suggest you consider another
breed or a cat.
Are you aware of particular health concerns about medicating Salukis? Please take your puppy to your veterinarian immediately after you purchase
him, to ensure he is in good health, and so he and the vet can get
to know each other. Find out if your veterinarian is familiar with
treating sighthounds in general and Salukis in particular. Salukis
may react untypical (and dangerously) to some medications, including
sulpha class drugs and anaesthetics. Give your veterinarian the
information located on our website entitled: "Anaesthesia in
Sighthounds".
Remember: If you want a dog that
instantly obeys your command and comes unfailingly the moment you
call, do not buy a Saluki. If you are not willing to use gentle
patience and positive reinforcement (not force) to train a dog, do
not buy a Saluki. If you are not willing to exercise your dog
properly, do not buy a Saluki.
Part of the
material in this article was taken from an article by the same name,
written by Shereen Shuman.
Materials are
from:
http://www.salukiclub.org/
Making the short-list
Let's assume that
you've already chosen or short-listed a Saluki as your kind of dog.
What made you choose the breed? Perhaps you saw a picture of one, or
perhaps you saw one in the flesh. It's elegance, grace and drop-dead
gorgeous looks might have helped you make up your mind. Well, I
suppose we all get caught up that way initially, but there's more to
a Saluki than just good looks.
The truth is,
there are just as many good reasons to take a Saluki into your home
as there are bad reasons. The articles in this section will set out
to expose the down side as well as the good times. If you can
survive the warnings herein and you can meet the requirements for
keeping your Saluki safe and healthy, you are probably a very
suitable candidate for a Saluki in your home.
And if you
already have a Saluki or two, or had one in the past, you will know
that there really is no other canine to match the Saluki's charming
appeal.
No other breed like it
Independent,
wilful, affectionate, undemonstrative, intelligent, independent,
quiet, clean, elegant, graceful, gentle, agile, independent,
amusing, exotic, beautiful, spirited, athletic, intuitive,
communicative, attractive, vocal, independent, loyal, protective,
fast, disobedient, trainable, civilized, aloof, comfort-seeking,
independent, compassionate, mischievous, easy, difficult,
independent, long-lived, destructive, faithful, companionable,
charming, fascinating, composed.... oh, and did I mention
independent?
The package that
is a Saluki was created many thousands of years ago to live and work
in a harsh, hunting environment. For centuries, Saluki have been
revered as something very special - a "Gift of Allah", and were set
quite apart from the ordinary "kelb" that roamed the streets. In our
Western homes, Saluki remain special - they need to live in special
homes and be loved by special people.
So you want to be owned by a Saluki?
There are a
number of issues to consider before you consider making the
commitment:
* Will there be someone at home during the day to take care of your Saluki?
A young puppy on
its own at home during the entire working week is totally
unacceptable. The puppy needs care and company from a responsible
person who can react intelligently in case of an emergency. If it is
impossible for you to have someone to stay at home while you are at
work, you should make some kind of day-care arrangement. If you have
other dogs, your Saluki can stay alone with them for short periods
during the day from about the age of 10 months.
* Is your property completely fenced?
A Saluki can jump
with the greatest of ease. A high, strong, secure fence, or a 5 - 6
feet wall around the area to which your Saluki has access is
essential and non-negotiable. Also, be pro-active about the front
door and gate if it is a potential escape route.
* Will your Saluki be allowed inside the house?
The Saluki is a
"people" dog, and enjoys your company and the comfort you can offer.
If you're not prepared to allow your Saluki to share your life and
home with you, please look for another breed - a Rottweiler,
perhaps...
* Where will your Saluki sleep?
It is preferable
to allow your Saluki to sleep inside the house, or similarly
comfortable and warm place, such as a Wendy house. A Saluki is not
an "outside dog" so an open kennel in the yard is not acceptable.
* Can you afford a Saluki?
Aside from the
initial expense of buying the puppy, paying for its transport and
additional costs, can you afford to feed premium-quality food,
provide regular and emergency veterinary care, cover the cost of
regular parasite treatment, pay for grooming and everything else to
make your Saluki comfortable and happy?
* Are you planning to breed your Saluki?
Why do you want
to breed your Saluki? Is it to give your children the experience of
watching a litter being born? Is it because you feel it is kind to
let a bitch have at least one litter? Is it because you want to make
money out of the project? Is it because you want to cross your
Saluki with another sighthound to create the ultimate coursing
hound? None of these reasons are good enough. You may only consider
breeding if you have developed an extensive knowledge of the breed,
their history, possible health problems, and compatible bloodlines.
Furthermore, breeding, if done properly (as every Saluki deserves)
is never profitable, it is time-consuming, expensive, and extremely
hard work.
* Are you prepared to embark on a life-long learning mission?
No-one can ever
know everything there is to know about Saluki. Studying their
history, conformation, movement, bloodlines, health issues, and
temperament can easily occupy the rest of your life. If you know
more about your Saluki companion, he is assured of a good quality of
life.
Materials are
from:
http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
* How much time do I need to spend exercising my Saluki?
A walk on a lead
allows him to explore his neighbourhood and socialise with other
dogs and people in a controlled way. From time to time your Saluki
will need to burn off energy in a fast, free run in a safe, open
place such as the beach, an open plot, or the local sports field -
far away from cars and other dangers. A Saluki moves very far, very
fast - if a field adjoins a busy road, say goodbye to your Saluki.
* Can a Saluki be trained to be obedient?
They can, and
must be trained, otherwise you will have an unruly monster on your
hands. A Saluki responds best to discipline tempered with love and
patience, not force. He will never be as competitively obedient as a
German Shepherd, for example, but can learn commands like "sit",
"stand", "stay", and "come" with positive reinforcement methods.
* Does a Saluki need a lot of my attention?
Being
independent, he is not likely to follow you from room to room, but
likes to know where you are and will settle down to sleep nearby.
They do not demand constant attention like some breeds who feel the
need to play with their humans all day, but your company is an
important part of your Saluki's life. He will not thrive if he has
to live in isolation during your working day, and again during
weekends when you go visiting.
* Do I have to have a large property?
This is a large
breed dog, so a reasonable amount of space is required. A flat with
a balcony is too small, but you don't need to buy a small farm.
He'll spend most of his days asleep in a comfortable area, so only
needs the property to stretch his legs and relieve himself. The
property must be adequately fenced or walled (an electric border is
not good enough because the Saluki will escape through it before the
electricity has time to shock him!) and you need to have strict
rules about gate access.
* Are Saluki safe with strange dogs and cats when out on a run?
Generally, no.
Because of their innate hunting instinct, a running fluff-ball is
interpreted as a rabbit, and the Saluki usually gives chase.
However, if your Saluki grows up with small dogs or cats, he will
probably play quite happily with them. To be on the safe side, put
your Saluki on a lead if there are small dogs or cats around.
* How long does a Saluki live?
Fifteen or
sixteen years is not unusual, but most live till about thirteen.
* Are Saluki very destructive?
All canine
youngsters are destructive - some more than others. A bored
youngster left to his own devices will find something to amuse
himself, and the chosen item may be an encyclopaedia, a cell phone,
or Grandma's tapestry. Prevention is always better than cure.
Fortunately, they soon grow out of their "devil-streaks" and become
completely civilised.
* Will my Saluki always come when I call him?
Don't count on
it! They are very independent, and when they have something on their
minds, like chasing a fluff-ball, they become as deaf as doorposts.
Screaming doesn't help, but shaking a plastic bottle filled with
coins or stones sometimes stops them in their tracks.
* Are Saluki prone to any genetic disease or veterinary disorders?
Unlike most large
breed dogs, hip dysplasia and other genetic diseases are very rare.
Beware of stomach torsion, where the stomach twists on itself if the
dog exercises after a heavy meal. Also, please warn your vet that
sighthounds do not react favourably to regular veterinary
anaesthetic, so a sedative or human anaesthetic is usually
administered. In old age, Saluki can succumb to typical canine
diseases such as cancer, kidney failure, or heart disease.
* Is a Saluki
compatible with children and other pets?
Yes, if they grow
up with them. Remember though, that children should be taught to
treat all animals with kindness and respect. You should not leave
your young child unsupervised with any pet.
Why choose a Saluki?
Saluki are
exotic, beautiful, and spirited. They do not shed heavily, they are
clean, and never have that awful "doggy" smell, even when wet. They
do not drool like some slobbering breeds. They are never clumsy and
do not cause damage with their uncontrollably waggy tails. They are
intelligent and intuitive, and can usually "read" your mood very
successfully. They try hard to communicate with you by grunting and
groaning softly at your kind touch, or by whining under their breath
when they want to tell you something. Just add a few human
syllables, and you'll have a whole conversation! They use their paws
to communicate too - to attract your attention, to ask for
something, or to plead for more scratching. Saluki draw lots of
attention when taken out on walks, so you'd better know your stuff
because people will ask questions about this unusual breed. Saluki
can be quite vocal and often gleefully erupt into "song" at a given
cue. Saluki should be raised as important members of the family.
When they grow out of their difficult adolescence, they develop into
elegant, loyal, independent and affectionate house companions,
always willing to protect the family from intrusive harm. Saluki
make delightful companions, and they blossom when they live in the
home with the family.
Materials are
from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
Where are they?
Word-of-mouth is
often the best way to find a reputable breeder. Try to mix in doggy
circles and, if possible, attend an event where Saluki and their
breeders are likely to gather, eg. a breed show, lure or open field
coursing, racing, and even agility or obedience classes. If you do
not find Saluki at a particular meeting, you can probably ask around
for recommendations.
Another way to
find breeders is to take note of advertisements in canine
publications. The Internet, too, is making breeders more accessible
to the general public. Simply entering a keyword such as "Saluki" in
a search engine can produce many links.
You can also
contact your country's canine registration body.
Making contact
Most breeders are
passionate about their Saluki to the point of being fanatical, so
talking about their beloved hounds comes easily. Friendly attitudes
on both sides of the phone will open communication and ensure open
channels in the future. If letter-writing or e-mail is your forte,
go for it. It's very likely that the breeder will respond with loads
of information and an invitation to visit.
If you have the
opportunity to visit, do so. Meet the breeder's Saluki (particularly
the dam, and hopefully the sire as well), take a look at the
conditions in which they all live, see the pedigrees and pictures
the breeder may want to show you, and don't be too shy to ask lots
of questions. Since temperament should be an important consideration
for you, do you think the breeder's Saluki have stable temperaments?
They may be aloof and wary of strangers, but never nervous,
panic-stricken, hostile, or aggressive. The breeder should give you
the contact details of some of the homes where her puppies have been
placed. It is a good idea to contact them, meet them, and ask
further questions. An honest, reputable breeder welcomes thorough
research such as this.
A reputable
breeder will also probably mention a contract that provides for your
Saluki if you are no longer able to keep it. It is also likely that
the breeder will ask many questions about you, your family, your
home, your pets and previous pets, your lifestyle, your work
commitments, whatever. Don't be offended by such questions -
reputable breeders are often more concerned about the Saluki's
future welfare than your bruised ego! It's possible the breeder
might even try to put you off owning a Saluki, telling you how
difficult they are to raise and what a specialist's breed they are.
She's probably doing this to weed out the potentially unsuitable. If
you're still hanging in there after all that grilling, you're doing
fine.
Be afraid... be very afraid...
After your
initial contact with the breeder, you'll be able to define your
impressions. Look elsewhere if
* the breeder
doesn't want you to visit his/her home to meet the
Saluki
* Saluki are just
one of many breeds that the breeder breeds
* there's a new
litter of pups every couple of months
* the breeder
doesn't have contact details of previous pups' owners
* the Saluki live
in kennels or enclosures all day and have little human contact
* the Salukis'
temperaments are questionable or even dangerous
* the breeder is
not willing to take the Saluki back if you are unable to keep it
* the breeder is
over anxious for you to buy a pup, or worse - more than one pup
* the breeder is
offering a "special discount price"
* the breeder
tries to encourage you to become a Saluki breeder because it is so
profitable
* the breeder has
little affinity with his/her dogs, or worse, if they are nervous of
him/her
* the dam
(mother) is younger than 2 years or older than 9 years, or has had
more than 3 litters
* the breeder is
not familiar with the breed standard, or who calls it "a load of
unnecessary hogwash" * the breeder doesn't belong to any Saluki or Hound organizations and is not a member of the country's canine governing body.
Materials are
from:
http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
So, you have made the commitment
The waiting game
Now you're on the
breeder's waiting list and, to secure your commitment, you might be
asked to pay a deposit. It is very seldom that a puppy will be
available immediately - it is far more likely that you'll have to
wait. The waiting period is actually a valuable cooling-off period
(rather decide now that you're not suited to owning a Saluki, than
ruin the little thing's life). The waiting period also allows you to
get to know the breeder and her Saluki well, do as much research as
possible on the breed, start meeting people who own Saluki, and take
part in Saluki-oriented events.
The breeder
should offer you plenty of sources for study, and should, herself,
be a minefield of information. Don't be afraid to tap that knowledge
- it's free and freely given! You'll probably be informed of all the
milestones en route to your precious puppy's arrival - the whelping,
their eyes opening, their first solids, their first games, their
first bark, and so on. If you treat this as big an event as the
breeder does, you will gain immense pleasure from the experience,
and anticipation levels amongst the younger members of your family
will be enormous.
The bad news is
that if the litter is too small, there is a possibility that there
won't be a puppy available for you. Sad... but one of the
unpredictabilities of life. The breeder will most likely recommend
another breeder, or you'll just have to settle down and wait for the
next litter...
If all goes well,
however, you'll discuss registration with the breeder and whether or
not there will be any restrictions. You should also discuss the
contract, the inoculation programme, the type and amount of food to
feed, whether or not you'll be expected to spay or neuter the
adolescent, and whether or not you'll want to show it. She'll
probably also invite you to join one or more canine organisations.
You'll discuss at what age you can fetch the puppy, or transport
arrangements will be made. Puppies generally fly quite well (in an
aeroplane, that is) and your breeder is accustomed to dispatching
puppies safely this way, so don't worry!
Please take time
to puppy-proof the house and garden before he arrives, ie. remove
things that might be dangerous, such as wires and sharp objects, and
don't forget to pack away the things that you want to protect from
his needle-like teeth! And beware, the young puppy is a pretty
good escape artist, so close up the holes in the fence, too.
The big day arrives!
You'll probably
arrange to collect or receive your puppy at between 8 - 12 weeks of
age. If the puppy is travelling in from another country, the
mountain of paperwork must be sorted out before its arrival (your
breeder will guide you through all that). At home, you will already
have the correct food, a set of bowls, some toys, and a comfortable
bed for the new arrival.
Go to the airport
or the breeder's house with a couple of towels, some newspaper,
water, and a bowl. If you need to travel a distance, or you do not
have a passenger to cradle the pup in the back seat, it's a good
idea to take along a small crate (check size with the breeder). The
items that you take along with you are to clean up any accidents
that may happen en route.
Greet your new
baby calmly. Chances are, he'll be very bewildered and, at this
stage, is not likely to respond favourably to over-excitedness on
your part. When the puppy kisses you on the face, the bonding will
be complete and the emotion immense!
Why does it look so funny?
A Saluki pup
looks very little like the grown-up version. At about 8 - 9 weeks
old, your pup is still quite chubby and shows none of the adult's
elegance. His feet will be quite big and floppy, and there will be
discernible bumps above the front pasterns (wrists) - this is to
allow for growth. The coat should be soft and shiny, and may have
patches of "puppy fluff" on the thighs and shoulders - this falls
out later. There will be no feathering yet, but you will be able to
see slight hair growth at the elbows, behind the thighs, and on the
tip of the tail. His ears will be all flop - very big and expressive
with wavy curls on the flaps - and the eyes should be shiny and
clear. As your puppy grows, he will go through some strange and
gangly phases. For a while, his back end, for example, may be higher
than the front end - but it levels out soon enough. A practised eye
may be able to suggest more-or-less how a puppy's features may
develop, but it is impossible to predict the outcome with any
certainty. So, if you're hoping for a show winner or a lure courser
par excellence, you'll just have to hope for the best and wait and
see. There is absolutely no guarantee how a youngster will turn out.
Hopefully, you will love your Saluki anyway...
Materials are
from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
The puppy patrol
Your baby has
been wrenched from mum and littermates - he is definitely very
confused and apprehensive, although he is probably already beginning
to respond to your warm, loving vibes and your calm, reassuring tone
of voice. It is a good idea to introduce him to one room and one
person at a time, otherwise the world is just too bewildering.
Gradually introduce the puppy to other pets in the home but don't
expect love at first sight. The older pet will be curious, but will
probably not stoop to show any interest. If you already own a Saluki
bitch, it is very likely that she will drool profusely.... no, she
doesn't want to eat the baby... this is purely maternal instinct.
Be prepared for a
disturbed night. Regardless of where your Saluki will be spending
the rest of his life, it is strongly suggested that you snuggle the
little soul next to (or in) your bed for the night with a garment
that you have just removed, which still contains your scent. Because
a dog is a pack animal, your new puppy will look to you as the pack
leader. Since packs eat, sleep and do things together, how do you
expect the tiny baby - recently removed from its family - to
understand why he has been suddenly banished to the kitchen? Once
the puppy has settled into his new home, he will start to feel more
confident in himself and will, of his own accord, choose to sleep in
his own bed.
House training
House-training is
usually the foremost priority with every new owner. Everyone wants
the new puppy to be clean as soon as possible. However, don't
expect too much too soon. The puppy has to learn how to control its
bowels, exactly like a child. It is unrealistic to expect 100 per
cent cleanliness before about 6 months if that seems too long,
remember a child takes longer!
The golden rule
in house training is to be pro-active rather than reactive. Remember
that as soon as the puppy awakes, and immediately after eating, he
will want to relieve himself. Be ready to take the puppy out
instantly. Keep a watch for 'nosing' behaviour, which indicates that
he is looking for a 'spot'. Stay outside with the pup, giving your
chosen command to perform, eg. "Go potty", or whatever, in a gentle,
reassuring tone, then give lots of excited praise and cuddles when
he does. Eventually the pup will get the idea and will 'aim to
please'.
It's not a good
idea to give the puppy free reign of the whole house unless you have
the time to follow him around wherever he goes. Rather restrict him
to the area where you are working or relaxing. Please, never, ever
rub the puppy's nose in his mistakes or shout at him and smack him.
Anger will only make the puppy feel rejected, isolated and confused.
You will double the time it takes to house-train him and you will
have a nervous, puppy that is scared of you and doesn't know why it
is not allowed to relieve himself. Be patient, and give love and
understanding. Positive reinforcement always works far quicker and
more effectively than negative punishment. There WILL be mistakes on
your best carpet - that's the reality of having a puppy in the home!
Just sigh and clean it up as quickly as possible and ensure that you
remove the smell from the area to prevent him from going back to
that spot. Try some of the excellent spot and odour remover products
on the market, or use soda water and sanitised nappy wipes.
Car travel
It is a good idea
to get your pup accustomed to car travel as soon as possible. If you
have a passenger, allow this person to hold her while she is still
tiny; allowing her free run of the car will make her nervous and it
is extremely dangerous. Never allow the puppy to travel in the car
with a choke chain and lead on, because she could get it caught in a
door handle, for example, and the consequences can be disastrous.
Keep ventilation in the car adequate and speak to her in a calming
and reassuring voice.
A very young
puppy may be sick the first few times, so be prepared with
newspapers and paper towels. If you have continuing problems with
car sickness, you may want to try a herbal remedy called "Rescue
Remedy", which is available in liquid or tablet form from
pharmacists or health shops. It has a calming effect on the puppy
and is perfectly safe to use. It's also not wise to give the puppy
food before embarking on a journey. Take comfort in the knowledge
that your pup will outgrow her car sickness - strangely enough,
especially after a long trip.
Occasionally,
Saluki youngsters remain very fearful and stressed during car
travel. Try to examine your behaviour during the trip. Are you
apprehensive, irritable, tense, or angry - and do you think your
feelings are being sensed by your youngster, who is also displaying
anxiety? If a car trip is always a stressful event that leads to
panic-attacks and/or car sickness, try to turn it into a pleasurable
event. Play gentle music on the radio, talk calmly to your Saluki,
stroke her gently, ignore the panic attacks and tantrums, and most
importantly, make the destination a really exciting place - the
beach, the park, and so on, and your troubles will soon be over.
Alone at home
Normally, you
will not leave your Saluki alone at home for great lengths of time,
but there are occasions when he must be left for a short while. The
easiest way to reassure your pup that he has not been abandoned is
to start with short periods away. Leave the property quietly,
without any fuss - don't even look at the pup or say "Goodbye". No,
you're not being cruel. Remember, your Saluki is a pack animal that
responds to messages from the pack leader - in this case: you. In
the pack, the leader simply gets up and goes: it doesn't ask
permission, and it doesn't say fond farewells. Stay away for about
fifteen minutes, then return in the same way - no fuss, no greeting,
no eye contact, regardless of how eagerly the pup tries to attract
your attention. This will be very hard for you to do because the
urge is to make a fuss and show the puppy how much you missed him.
Gradually increase the time spent away and very soon the pup will
learn that you always come back. Not making a fuss will ensure that
you don't have an unmanageable, jumping, whirling dervish to greet
you, or a destructive, howling Saluki when you leave.
Materials are
from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/rum.homestead.com
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
There are many
varied and valid opinions on the most suitable diet for sighthounds.
Some owners prefer to follow a natural diet of raw meat, cereals and
vegetables, while others prefer to use premium-quality dog foods. Do
remember that your Saluki puppy will have special nutritional
requirements for the first year of her life while she is growing up,
so a balanced diet with the correct nutrients in the correct amounts
is essential. You should follow the breeder's recommendations and
feed your puppy the same type of food in the same quantities to
which she has been accustomed. Should you later decide to change the
diet, you should do so very gradually to prevent upsetting the
puppy's digestive system.
With regard to
the feeding routine, you might want to consider the following:
* Weigh
your puppy regularly to monitor growth. If you feed one of the
balanced premium-quality foods, the recommended daily allowance
is based on the puppy's weight. The variance allows for the puppy's
activity levels - so a highly active Saluki may need the greater
recommended amount. Monitor weight gain carefully.... if there is
any sign of putting on too much weight, reduce the amount
accordingly.
* Divide
the puppy's daily allowance into three portions (breakfast, lunch,
and supper). Gradually, your puppy will ease herself out of the noon
meal, then you can continue to feed two meals a day.
* As the
puppy grows, so do the legs, so it is very good practice to raise
the feeding bowl to a comfortable height of about 30 - 40cms from
the ground - a crate works fine.
* It is a
good idea to get the puppy accustomed to wearing a snood (a
tube-like garment worn over the ears) at an early age to protect the
ear fringes as they start to grow.
* Stay with
the puppy while she is eating - this way you can ensure that she
eats her food as required and you'll be able to notice immediately
if there is a loss of appetite.
* Under no
circumstances should you leave food down for the puppy to help
herself during the day - this practice leads to all kinds of
nutritional disorders and behavioural problems.
* If your puppy
shows no interest in her food after about 10-15 mins, take it away.
If it is a temporary loss of appetite, monitor her carefully. Avoid
the temptation to fuss or force-feed, otherwise mealtimes could
become a stressful, rather than pleasurable, experience.
* Always
have enough cool, fresh water down for your Saluki.
* Avoid the
temptation to feed table scraps and titbits other than those
recommended by the breeder. You will not only be unbalancing your
puppy's diet, but you could encourage eating disorders and bad
habits.
* Never
supplement the diet with calcium and other additives when feeding
one of the premium-quality processed dog foods. Doing so will
unbalance the diet and cause nutritional problems.
* Try to
feed at the same time each day. A dog appreciates routine and does
not need variety, like humans do!
Fussy eaters
A Saluki that
becomes a fussy eater is extremely problematic. This behavioural
problem often develops when a routine is not established or if the
puppy has a nasty experience during a mealtime, such as other dogs
threatening to eat her food, and so on. Some Saluki simply refuse to
eat more than the barest minimum to keep them alive. There is
nothing more frustrating than trying to deal with a Saluki that
stares at her food without touching a morsel. Patience and a calm
environment helps - showing frustration doesn't.
So, do you stand
by fretfully and watch your puppy refuse food day after day, or do
you try various other diets. Changing the diet frequently is very
seldom very successful - the puppy only seems to become even more
fussy! More success has been attained through putting the food down
at regular times and maintaining a calm, pleasurable environment
than any other method. Eventually, the puppy will eat, and while she
may still not eat enough to put on weight, at least she eats!
Fortunately, most Saluki youngsters grow out of this bad habit as
they mature.
A full grown,
healthy Saluki should have its hipbones showing slightly, and two to
three ribs just visible beneath the skin. The flesh should be
firm, well muscled with no excess fat, and the coat should have a
healthy sheen. If your Saluki doesn't fit this description - look at
the diet!
Things to eat
Suitable titbits
(given occasionally as a treat or reward) and allowable extras can
include:
* good
quality dog biscuits (not too many - remember that waistline)
* doggy
chews and commercial bribes
*
sterilised cow hooves or pig's ears (excellent to reduce plaque)
* very
large marrow bones
* raw
chicken necks or wings
Things to avoid
* chocolate
* sharp
bones
* potato
* raw egg
white
Materials are
from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/rum.homestead.com
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
Play
Saluki puppies
start to play with their litter mates as soon as they become more
aware of their surroundings. Romping around the whelping box on legs
that won't stay underneath them, they practise their fiercest growls
and sharpen their newly-emerging teeth on each other. At this point,
the dam frequently decides that enough is enough, and jumps out of
the whelping box to observe the shenanigans from a safer vantage
point. As they grow older, the games become positively violent in
their frenetic energy. Every action, every move, is part of the
learning and developing process as they acquire new life skills and
establish themselves in the hierarchy. Just as suddenly as the
gaming starts, it will abruptly end, as every youngster collapses in
the communal heap to recharge their batteries for the next burst.
Young Saluki are
naturally inquisitive, boisterous and full of mischief. Play is an
essential part of the learning experience. A range of toys are
essential so that the puppy has something with which to amuse itself
during its play period. Although there are many commercial
toys on the market, Saluki are also rather fond of shredding
newspaper or cardboard tubes, or even plastic bottles (with the tops
removed).
Because the
hunting instinct is very strong in Saluki, you may want to tie a
piece of sheepskin to a thin rope. This you can drag around the
garden - at great speed, of course - and encourage the little one to
chase it. (Probably won't need much encouragement)
A Saluki's
favourite toy is a fluffy wotsit. Unfortunately they don't last long
because they're generally disembowelled within the hour, but do take
care to remove the fluffy toy's plastic eyes before handing it over.
Some Saluki like playing with a Buster Cube, which allows bits of
kibble to fall out of a tunnel-like hole, encouraging the pup to
keep rolling it around, trying to empty it of all its titbits.
Socialising
Socialisation is
such an important part of a puppy's preparation that it cannot be
over-emphasised. In Western society, we expect our Saluki to be sane
and sensible members of the family unit. This attribute doesn't
always come naturally, so we also need to teach the Saluki youngster
how to accept the big, wide world.
Your breeder
would probably have introduced the young puppy to a number of
experiences, such as cars, people, and things that make noises. Now
you need to take these early lessons a step further. A young Saluki
puppy may be a little shy, but generally friendly and inquisitive.
If your puppy is nervous or aggressive, you will have to work extra
hard to socialise the little thing to normal life....but do it.
Start by finding
out if there are puppy socialisation classes in your area. At these
classes, members sit in a protective circle and allow the pups to
romp with each other in the centre. It is an ideal opportunity for
your Saluki pup to meet other youngsters and people in a friendly,
non-threatening environment. Gradually, the pups are taught the
basic principles of sitting, standing, lying, and coming when
called. and they're also introduced to a number of human inventions
such as umbrellas, buckets and spades, lawn mowers, brooms,
raincoats, hats, etc. A trainer will watch the pups' body language
closely and step in immediately to intervene in times of potential
stress. If there is no such group in your area, why not get together
with some like-minded people and start a group!
You need to take
your pup out as often as possible, too. If supermarkets or malls
allow dogs, take your Saluki for a short walk to see the goings on
and meet people. Monitor the experience carefully, though - if the
environment appears even slightly stressful for the little thing,
rather come back and try again another day. It doesn't mean,
however, that you should leave your Saluki in the hot car while you
do your shopping!!!!
Taking your pup
as a visitor to a dog show is an ideal opportunity for him to look
around, meet people and sniff at other dogs. The kind of people
you'll meet at dog shows are also very familiar with the
socialisation process and they will be only too willing to gently
stroke the youngster and talk to him as he wanders around (on a
lead, of course) at your side.
Little by little,
try to expose your Saluki youngster to as many different experiences
as possible. With you at his side, he should gain confidence from
your clear leadership and reassurance.
Exercise
Never be tempted
to over-exercise your puppy within the first nine to twelve months
of its life. By all means allow it the freedom to run around
your garden until it decides enough is enough, but don't allow an
adult dog to run with it for too long as this will encourage the
puppy to over-exert itself. Don't take your Saluki puppy out
for long walks until it is about 6 months old and limit the length
of the walk. The bones and muscles are still developing, and
if a puppy is given too much exercise in the early months, long term
problems can develop, such as deformity of tendons and ligaments.
It is difficult to specify exact amounts of exercise for individual
dogs. As a general rule never walk or run your hound into
exhaustion - just try to take the edge off their energy.
Exercise is a
different matter once your Saluki is an adult. The Saluki is one of
the fastest animals on earth and possesses endurance that a
Greyhound lacks. An adult Saluki needs plenty of exercise, both on
the lead and off, to develop good muscle tone. Try to find a venue
where your Saluki can safely run free - the beach, a large enclosed
field, or sports fields. The sight of an adult Saluki doing what it
likes best running at full stretch, a large grin on its face,
ears streaming behind, and the tail sweeping first one way and then
the other like a rudder is a joy to behold.
Avoid areas that
are close to traffic and, of course, the Saluki must never ever, no
way ever be let off the property alone to wander around the streets.
Yes, she will find her way home, but maybe a car, a vicious mongrel,
or a thief will find her first.
Materials are
from:
http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane
Lead training
You can put a
lightweight collar on your puppy and let her play around for a
while. It is not a good idea to let a Saluki wear a collar all the
time, because of the possibility of it getting caught and strangling
the puppy. Turn the business of putting on a collar into a game, and
after a few days, you can attach a light lead as well.
When you feel
that your puppy is accustomed to the experience, you can begin by
taking the other end of the lead and calling her to you while gently
tugging the lead. She will probably buck at the new sensation - go
with it, avoid tight pressure on the other side or it will frighten
her. With patience and understanding you will be able to hold the
lead without her panicking, then you can encourage her to respond to
the lead, always using exciting call noises and treats. Eventually,
she will be able to walk next to you on the lead - not very straight
at first - but if she comes with you, half the battle is won.
Learning to behave
One thing is
guaranteed - your Saluki puppy will find mischief... and it is a
well-known fact that Saluki adolescents can be horrific if left to
their own devices. As long as you are prepared for the worst, it
shouldn't shock you too much when something gets chewed to shreds...
Because
prevention is better than cure, it is important to puppy-proof your
home and keep the untouchables untouchable. Shoes lying under the
bed, for example, are inviting to be chewed. Take special care to
hide all telephone and electric cables.
A bored Saluki
puppy will find something to amuse itself - and that something could
be your great-grandmother's antique tapestry. It is not a good idea
to leave the puppy entirely to his own devices around the house. You
need to observe and be pre-emptive in the selection of playthings.
Keep the puppy interested in cow hooves, stuffed toys (with plastic
eyes and nose removed), balls, doggy toys, empty plastic bottles and
cans.
Please don't let
your puppy become the master of the household. It is, in any case,
too much of a responsibility for him and he will look to you to lay
down the groundrules. In the wild, no pack leader tolerates
disobedience or challenges, and neither should you. This doesn't
mean that you should be harsh and forceful with your little Saluki -
far from it. All discipline should be tempered with affection - and
NEVER in anger. When the worst is over and there's been a sufficient
'cooling off' period, reassure him with a hug and a pleasant tone of
voice. Next time, if he gets it right, heap on lots of praise and
positive reinforcement.
As soon as
possible, you should teach the pup the meaning of the word NO! This
is normally delivered in a strong tone, and you may also find that a
loud noise - such as clapping hands or a rolled-up newspaper against
your legs - will help to alert the pup to the command. Make it clear
that you mean it - there is nothing more deaf than a Saluki that
feels like ignoring you! The secret to effective discipline is to
catch him red-handed. You can use some really stern words, but don't
overdo it! In extreme circumstances, you can give him a good shake
about the neck as his mother would have done, and turn him onto his
back in a submissive position.
NEVER punish a puppy after the crime. The pup has no memory
of such a transgression and will not understand why he is being
punished.
NEVER punish a puppy as soon as he returns to the scene of
the crime if he is called. What are you doing? You're reinforcing
that it is a bad idea to come when called!
NEVER give a Saluki a hiding - you will spoil the dog
forever because he will never forget and will probably take it out
on your prized possessions anyway! The last thing you want is a dog
that is scared of you.
NEVER try to chase after a naughty Saluki puppy. Oh, what a
wonderful game....! Or it could turn into a frightening experience
to which no puppy should be exposed.
NEVER banish a Saluki puppy into isolation. A young puppy
cannot associate isolation with punishment and it will cause trauma
and anxiety.
Unlike a human,
your puppy will understand perfectly that you will set the
parameters for attention and petting. You can decide when you want
to cuddle your puppy - call him to you and heap lots of praise on
him for coming. It's not a bad idea to end a petting session before
the pup gets bored with the attention. In other words, play hard to
get so that you're constantly in demand.
Coming to call
Saluki are
notoriously deaf when it suits them. Most times you will just have
to put up with this trait and try not to work up your blood
pressure! Besides, getting angry and showing irritation only makes
matters worse. You will soon learn to time your calls so that they
have maximum effect - in other words, don't waste your breath trying
to call back a Saluki that is on a mission. He's not likely to
listen to you, and the unheeded yelling will become entrenched in a
bad behaviour pattern. Try to call when you sense he has finished
his business and is most likely to respond - then, reward him with
lots of praise and even a titbit or two. Generally a Saluki that
doesn't want to be caught will run in circles around you, just out
of reach. Try not to lunge at him, no matter how strong the
temptation! A trick that works reasonably well is to walk away
in the opposite direction. A Saluki hates to be ignored, so he will
soon come galloping back to see why you are not entering panic mode.
Gently and calmly hold the collar and heap praise and affection on
him for coming back, even if you are at your wit's end. Never show
irritation, and never yell or smack when he arrives. Do this, and
the message he learns is that you become angry when he comes to you!
A tin of treats
or biscuits is quite a useful magnet as well. Once your Saluki
learns there are treats at the end of the run, a shake of the tin
could stop him in his tracks.
Formal obedience training
Two words on this
subject = highly advisable. No, you don't need to train him to be an
Obedience Champion (unless you really want to), but you need to live
with the dog, so the basic commands of Sit', 'Stay', and 'Come',
etc, are essential. You can teach your Saluki puppy the groundrules
and basic commands at home, but you'll find that a doggy training
school teaches your youngster to socialise with other dogs and
people. Don't believe people who claim that hounds are untrainable.
Saluki require a gentler, more empathetic approach than, say German
Shepherds do, but they are intelligent - if wilful - and can learn
to do anything they believe to be important enough. Many Saluki have
successfully completed their Obedience titles, as well as Agility,
Dog Jumping, Carting, and even Tracking.
If you're
planning on showing your Saluki in the breed classes, it is strongly
advised that you attend ringcraft and socialisation classes as soon
as your pup has had his last inoculation. These classes help to
prepare the youngster for the strange goings-on around him in daily
life and will accustom him to being handled by strangers and paraded
in front of other dogs and people.
A reasonably
obedient, responsive, well-socialised Saluki is an asset instead of
a liability. Do take the training and socialising aspect of his
growing up extremely seriously.
Materials are
from:
http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/
Author Copyright:
Joy McFarlane Copyright © 2003-2011. All rights reserved.
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