Puppy

Frequently Asked Questions

 

How is the Saluki around children? Other pets? As a watchdog?

The Saluki can be quite tolerant of children and can be accused of "licking the baby" too much. As with any breed the temperament of the puppy in question can determine how it will interact with children. Salukis can be territorial while claiming "their" children and protecting them from a "Saluki-perceived" harm. They can be protective of other pets in the household as well. In the Middle-East they have been used as flock guardians. This does not mean that they can be trained as watch/guard dogs like a Doberman or Rottweiler. It is from the Saluki's sense of loyalty and companionship to their owner that this tendency can be attributed. Salukis can be temperamental and will become quite emotionally attached to their owners.

Are they noisy? Do they have any bad habits?

Salukis tend to bark only when there is something worthwhile to bark at (unless one has fallen into bad habits out of boredom). They are very athletic, easily able to clear high fences unless the owner has taken proper precautions to see that this does not occur. They are not usually nuisance diggers, but can create large pits to escape summer heat if left out of doors. Also, if not exercised enough, your Saluki may excavate your backyard and garden into W.W.II sized foxholes.

Is the Saluki a good house-dog?

The Saluki is an extremely clean dog with little to no odor, and minimal shedding due to the short coat. In general, a Saluki kept indoors sheds a little all year round. Salukis are not generally thought of as outside dogs and they tend to not do well in that kind of situation.

They do not drool, except in anticipation of food. They are generally easy to house train. They will take over the furniture unless their owners discourage this habit from puppy hood. A happily wagging tail will easily clear off low coffee tables.

Many Saluki owners have learned the "seven foot rule"; if you don't want the hound to get whatever the item is (butter on the counter, leftovers on the stove, the roast thawing on the counter) put it out of reach -- at least seven feet from the floor.

Are there any special feeding problems?

Some Salukis can be finicky in their eating habits and periodically fast. Most Salukis eat less than other breeds of dog and drink less as well. This is evident in Arabian horses and camels as well. One of the most often heard questions by a Saluki owner is "Don't you feed that dog? It's so skinny; I can see its bones." The answer is --Yes, I do feed it. All that wants. It also runs approximately 35 mph. Salukis and sight hounds in general have the smallest amount of body fat of all the dog breeds. When spayed or neutered they may gain weight and the coat may become fuzzy.

Are there any special medical problems?

Due to lack of body fat, Salukis are sensitive to anesthetic agents. This is true of most, if not all, the sight hounds. They also can have reactions and intolerances to some worming and flea products. In particular, the wormer known as TASK is not recommended for use on Greyhounds. As a general rule if the label states not recommended for use on Greyhounds don't use it on a Saluki.

The #1 cause of death in Salukis is Hit by Car.
The #2 cause of death is Old Age (average life span 12-18 yrs).

Thyroid: Some Salukis may be affected by low thyroid function. This can be detected by blood tests and can be corrected by oral medication. This condition may be seen in older animals whose hormone level has decreased, and also in neutered animals.

Cancer: Cancer has been reported at an increasing rate; many of the animals affected have been at 4 yrs of age.

Heart Conditions: The Saluki is a tremendous athlete; if given the opportunity to fulfill his hunting instincts, the heart may become enlarged.

As with any breed, regular annual checkups and proper follow up with diet and medication (if necessary) are recommended.

How much exercise does a Saluki need?

Salukis love to run. They will run just for the thrill of it. One to two miles or more at a time. They can make excellent jogging companions. In the Middle-East Salukis were and are kept by the Bedouins, a pastoral nomadic people, and thus would travel numerous miles over the yearly trek.

Are they energetic or hyper? Are they high-strung?

A young Saluki can be a very energetic fellow. In general, they mature into lovely calm dogs. Salukis have an instinct to chase moving objects and they can learn what is acceptable to chase and what is not. As a general rule, at the age of two they begin to settle down and continue to mellow significantly each following year.

What were Salukis originally used for?

Salukis were and are bred in Middle-East as a hunting/companion/guard dog. They primarily hunt by sight and to a much lesser degree by smell, and thus are very aware of their surroundings. Salukis have keen hearing, but when in pursuit of "game" exhibit "selective deafness" (which is usually infuriating to the owner who is calling their hound at the top of their lungs with no noticeable result). When the dog has stopped running and is standing still is the time to attract the dog's attention by both calling it and making waving motions with your arms. Their native quarry includes hare, gazelle, and bustard.

 

Materials are from: http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/breeds/salukis.html


 

A Good Saluki Owner

 

Because of its independent, yet sensitive character, the Saluki is an ideal breed for people who prefer to relate to their animal companions as cognitive intelligent beings.

You must want your salukis to be a member of your family, not merely your dog or your pet.

You must enjoy being active as well as relaxing with your Salukis. Lack of sufficient exercise will negatively affect both mental and physical fitness.

You must devote time for consistent training that is positive, loving yet firm, for best results. Salukis can learn quickly. They respond well when exposed to kind and thoughtful training methods. Training your Saluki involves as much self analysis and discipline as it does interacting with your hound.

You must be prepared to travel with your Saluki, or find a reliable sitter or kennel if you cannot. Remember, your Saluki is happiest when with you.

You must make a financial commitment to ensure your Saluki's long, happy, healthy and comfortable life. This means that you must be willing to provide a permanent home for your Saluki - through tough times as well as when times are good.

You must be willing to contact the breeder for help or advice.

 

Materials are from: http://www.salukicanada.com/


 

Saluki temperament

 

The Saluki is a proud animal with great depth of character and personality.  Salukis are truly a family hound and will not be happy if he cannot share family life. It is important that Saluki puppies be well socialized because they can have the tendency, having been bred for aloofness and independence, to be shy with strange people, places and animals. A well socialized saluki is comfortable almost anywhere.  Very little physical punishment is ever necessary for a misbehaving Saluki.  Their feelings are highly sensitive and for this reason, repetition of punishment for the same misdemeanor is seldom necessary. You may be shocked to know that Salukis hold a grudge if reprimanded and they will let you know for the next hour or so that you have insulted them. Oddly enough, if they've been punished for something which they know is not acceptable, they will most certainly apologize with a great deal of tail wagging.
Saukis are not often thought of by obedience trainers as intelligent because most people think of canine intelligence in terms of trainability.  The saluki is trainable but because of inherent behavioral attributes they rarely participate in silly tricks and often disobey when called off lead.  Lately, however, there are more obedience trained Salukis as the techniques for training become more reward oriented as opposed to punishment based. But the Saluki is first and foremost a hunter and the traits that the Bedouin bred for are deeply ingrained. Salukis can also be quite physically sensitive due to their low body fat ratio and can be very vocal about pain (even perceived pain).  
To own a Saluki you should, ideally, have a large fenced yard. A Saluki pup is very fast so a secure yard is essential for safety, unrestricted exercise and your own piece of mind. The Saluki requires lots of exercise to build strength and stamina.

Salukis are considered a large dog. Once a Saluki puppy has outgrown his inevitable awkward stage he will readily learn respect for your home and furniture to become a well behaved considerate houseguest. Salukis are very gentle and sensitive, enjoy the creature comforts of domestication and appreciate being allowed on a piece of furniture but beware of allowing him to usurp this seat from humans for he may take this as an indication of who's boss. Despite the Saluki's size they are adept at curling into a tightly wound ball and will not eat you out of house and home. An adult Saluki's appetite is quite modest and overweight problems are rare.

 

Materials are from: http://salukiho.tripod.com/


 

Is a Saluki for You? 

 

Are you considering a Saluki? Though no breed is appropriate for every home, the Saluki is not like a Lab, Golden, or Shepherd, which can work well for a larger variety of homes.

Salukis are exotic, beautiful, and spirited. They are clean, do not shed much, and draw lots of attention when taken for a walk in the neighbourhood. But they are also hunters with thousands of years of purposeful breeding behind them. They will run after anything that is fuzzy and moves, and will sometimes catch and kill their targets. Salukis are not to be trusted off leash in an unsafe area. Also, Salukis are much too fast and clever to catch if they accidentally sneak out the door. Salukis tend to sleep on beds, sofas, and chairs rather than on floors. However, Salukis are the most independently loving creatures on Godнs Earth. They get under your skin to become an important part of your life. If you acquire a Saluki, you must prepare to be consumed.

Is your yard fenced? As stressed above, Salukis can rarely be trusted off leash in a non-enclosed area. A yard fenced to a height of five feet is recommended, as Salukis can jump anything less with ease. If you do not have fencing, you must be prepared to walk your Saluki on leash at all times, and find it a safe area for regular free running. In other words, you must go outside during rainstorms, at night, before bed, in your pyjamas, and you must be willing to drive or walk your Saluki to safe places to run. Are you prepared for this?

Can Salukis be taught obedience? Yes and no. In a controlled situation, with proper training, most Salukis can be taught to act in a civilized fashion. But you may not be able to get your Saluki to return consistently on recall in an open field, especially if he spots a squirrel.

Do Salukis live a long time? Salukis are generally a long-lived breed. The number one killer of young Salukis is "CARS", which is why we stress finding safe areas for them to run.. A Saluki will routinely reach thirteen years of age, and many live to be fifteen years or older. Most Salukis eventually die from standard old age illnesses such as cancer or congestive heart failure.

Do Salukis do well in crates? Can a Saluki be crate trained? Salukis can be taught to sleep on dog beds or in crates if you do not want them in bed with you. Also, teaching any dog to stay quietly in a crate for short periods can be an effective tool in keeping your dog safe in travelling, during an illness or injury when you need to keep him quiet, etc. This is not to be confused with crating them for long periods of time on a continuous basis. For example, crating a dog while you are at work all day, every day, is not a healthy lifestyle for any dog. For the majority of the day a Saluki needs a larger area it can be contained safely in, where they can have some form of exercise and play, with access to an outside fenced area if possible. If your schedule or facilities do not allow for this, we suggest you consider another breed or a cat.

Are you aware of particular health concerns about medicating Salukis? Please take your puppy to your veterinarian immediately after you purchase him, to ensure he is in good health, and so he and the vet can get to know each other. Find out if your veterinarian is familiar with treating sighthounds in general and Salukis in particular. Salukis may react untypical (and dangerously) to some medications, including sulpha class drugs and anaesthetics. Give your veterinarian the information located on our website entitled: "Anaesthesia in Sighthounds".

Remember: If you want a dog that instantly obeys your command and comes unfailingly the moment you call, do not buy a Saluki. If you are not willing to use gentle patience and positive reinforcement (not force) to train a dog, do not buy a Saluki. If you are not willing to exercise your dog properly, do not buy a Saluki.

Part of the material in this article was taken from an article by the same name, written by Shereen Shuman.

 

Materials are from: http://www.salukiclub.org/


 

Considering the commitment

 

Making the short-list

Let's assume that you've already chosen or short-listed a Saluki as your kind of dog. What made you choose the breed? Perhaps you saw a picture of one, or perhaps you saw one in the flesh. It's elegance, grace and drop-dead gorgeous looks might have helped you make up your mind. Well, I suppose we all get caught up that way initially, but there's more to a Saluki than just good looks.

The truth is, there are just as many good reasons to take a Saluki into your home as there are bad reasons. The articles in this section will set out to expose the down side as well as the good times. If you can survive the warnings herein and you can meet the requirements for keeping your Saluki safe and healthy, you are probably a very suitable candidate for a Saluki in your home.

And if you already have a Saluki or two, or had one in the past, you will know that there really is no other canine to match the Saluki's charming appeal.

No other breed like it

Independent, wilful, affectionate, undemonstrative, intelligent, independent, quiet, clean, elegant, graceful, gentle, agile, independent, amusing, exotic, beautiful, spirited, athletic, intuitive, communicative, attractive, vocal, independent, loyal, protective, fast, disobedient, trainable, civilized, aloof, comfort-seeking, independent, compassionate, mischievous, easy, difficult, independent, long-lived, destructive, faithful, companionable, charming, fascinating, composed.... oh, and did I mention independent?

The package that is a Saluki was created many thousands of years ago to live and work in a harsh, hunting environment. For centuries, Saluki have been revered as something very special - a "Gift of Allah", and were set quite apart from the ordinary "kelb" that roamed the streets. In our Western homes, Saluki remain special - they need to live in special homes and be loved by special people.

So you want to be owned by a Saluki?

There are a number of issues to consider before you consider making the commitment:

* Will there be someone at home during the day to take care of your Saluki?

A young puppy on its own at home during the entire working week is totally unacceptable. The puppy needs care and company from a responsible person who can react intelligently in case of an emergency. If it is impossible for you to have someone to stay at home while you are at work, you should make some kind of day-care arrangement. If you have other dogs, your Saluki can stay alone with them for short periods during the day from about the age of 10 months.

* Is your property completely fenced?

A Saluki can jump with the greatest of ease. A high, strong, secure fence, or a 5 - 6 feet wall around the area to which your Saluki has access is essential and non-negotiable. Also, be pro-active about the front door and gate if it is a potential escape route.

* Will your Saluki be allowed inside the house?

The Saluki is a "people" dog, and enjoys your company and the comfort you can offer. If you're not prepared to allow your Saluki to share your life and home with you, please look for another breed - a Rottweiler, perhaps...

* Where will your Saluki sleep?

It is preferable to allow your Saluki to sleep inside the house, or similarly comfortable and warm place, such as a Wendy house. A Saluki is not an "outside dog" so an open kennel in the yard is not acceptable.

* Can you afford a Saluki?

Aside from the initial expense of buying the puppy, paying for its transport and additional costs, can you afford to feed premium-quality food, provide regular and emergency veterinary care, cover the cost of regular parasite treatment, pay for grooming and everything else to make your Saluki comfortable and happy?

* Are you planning to breed your Saluki?

Why do you want to breed your Saluki? Is it to give your children the experience of watching a litter being born? Is it because you feel it is kind to let a bitch have at least one litter? Is it because you want to make money out of the project? Is it because you want to cross your Saluki with another sighthound to create the ultimate coursing hound? None of these reasons are good enough. You may only consider breeding if you have developed an extensive knowledge of the breed, their history, possible health problems, and compatible bloodlines. Furthermore, breeding, if done properly (as every Saluki deserves) is never profitable, it is time-consuming, expensive, and extremely hard work.

* Are you prepared to embark on a life-long learning mission?

No-one can ever know everything there is to know about Saluki. Studying their history, conformation, movement, bloodlines, health issues, and temperament can easily occupy the rest of your life. If you know more about your Saluki companion, he is assured of a good quality of life.

 

Materials are from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

Living with a Saluki

 

* How much time do I need to spend exercising my Saluki?

A walk on a lead allows him to explore his neighbourhood and socialise with other dogs and people in a controlled way. From time to time your Saluki will need to burn off energy in a fast, free run in a safe, open place such as the beach, an open plot, or the local sports field - far away from cars and other dangers. A Saluki moves very far, very fast - if a field adjoins a busy road, say goodbye to your Saluki.

* Can a Saluki be trained to be obedient?

They can, and must be trained, otherwise you will have an unruly monster on your hands. A Saluki responds best to discipline tempered with love and patience, not force. He will never be as competitively obedient as a German Shepherd, for example, but can learn commands like "sit", "stand", "stay", and "come" with positive reinforcement methods.

* Does a Saluki need a lot of my attention?

Being independent, he is not likely to follow you from room to room, but likes to know where you are and will settle down to sleep nearby. They do not demand constant attention like some breeds who feel the need to play with their humans all day, but your company is an important part of your Saluki's life. He will not thrive if he has to live in isolation during your working day, and again during weekends when you go visiting.

* Do I have to have a large property?

This is a large breed dog, so a reasonable amount of space is required. A flat with a balcony is too small, but you don't need to buy a small farm. He'll spend most of his days asleep in a comfortable area, so only needs the property to stretch his legs and relieve himself. The property must be adequately fenced or walled (an electric border is not good enough because the Saluki will escape through it before the electricity has time to shock him!) and you need to have strict rules about gate access.

* Are Saluki safe with strange dogs and cats when out on a run?

Generally, no. Because of their innate hunting instinct, a running fluff-ball is interpreted as a rabbit, and the Saluki usually gives chase. However, if your Saluki grows up with small dogs or cats, he will probably play quite happily with them. To be on the safe side, put your Saluki on a lead if there are small dogs or cats around.

* How long does a Saluki live?

Fifteen or sixteen years is not unusual, but most live till about thirteen.

* Are Saluki very destructive?

All canine youngsters are destructive - some more than others. A bored youngster left to his own devices will find something to amuse himself, and the chosen item may be an encyclopaedia, a cell phone, or Grandma's tapestry. Prevention is always better than cure. Fortunately, they soon grow out of their "devil-streaks" and become completely civilised.

* Will my Saluki always come when I call him?

Don't count on it! They are very independent, and when they have something on their minds, like chasing a fluff-ball, they become as deaf as doorposts. Screaming doesn't help, but shaking a plastic bottle filled with coins or stones sometimes stops them in their tracks.

*  Are Saluki prone to any genetic disease or veterinary disorders?

Unlike most large breed dogs, hip dysplasia and other genetic diseases are very rare. Beware of stomach torsion, where the stomach twists on itself if the dog exercises after a heavy meal. Also, please warn your vet that sighthounds do not react favourably to regular veterinary anaesthetic, so a sedative or human anaesthetic is usually administered. In old age, Saluki can succumb to typical canine diseases such as cancer, kidney failure, or heart disease.

* Is a Saluki compatible with children and other pets?

Yes, if they grow up with them. Remember though, that children should be taught to treat all animals with kindness and respect. You should not leave your young child unsupervised with any pet.

Why choose a Saluki?

Saluki are exotic, beautiful, and spirited. They do not shed heavily, they are clean, and never have that awful "doggy" smell, even when wet. They do not drool like some slobbering breeds. They are never clumsy and do not cause damage with their uncontrollably waggy tails. They are intelligent and intuitive, and can usually "read" your mood very successfully. They try hard to communicate with you by grunting and groaning softly at your kind touch, or by whining under their breath when they want to tell you something. Just add a few human syllables, and you'll have a whole conversation! They use their paws to communicate too - to attract your attention, to ask for something, or to plead for more scratching. Saluki draw lots of attention when taken out on walks, so you'd better know your stuff because people will ask questions about this unusual breed. Saluki can be quite vocal and often gleefully erupt into "song" at a given cue. Saluki should be raised as important members of the family. When they grow out of their difficult adolescence, they develop into elegant, loyal, independent and affectionate house companions, always willing to protect the family from intrusive harm. Saluki make delightful companions, and they blossom when they live in the home with the family.

 

Materials are from:  http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

Finding the right breeder

 

Where are they?

Word-of-mouth is often the best way to find a reputable breeder. Try to mix in doggy circles and, if possible, attend an event where Saluki and their breeders are likely to gather, eg. a breed show, lure or open field coursing, racing, and even agility or obedience classes. If you do not find Saluki at a particular meeting, you can probably ask around for recommendations.

 Another way to find breeders is to take note of advertisements in canine publications. The Internet, too, is making breeders more accessible to the general public. Simply entering a keyword such as "Saluki" in a search engine can produce many links.

You can also contact your country's canine registration body.

Making contact

Most breeders are passionate about their Saluki to the point of being fanatical, so talking about their beloved hounds comes easily. Friendly attitudes on both sides of the phone will open communication and ensure open channels in the future. If letter-writing or e-mail is your forte, go for it. It's very likely that the breeder will respond with loads of information and an invitation to visit.

If you have the opportunity to visit, do so. Meet the breeder's Saluki (particularly the dam, and hopefully the sire as well), take a look at the conditions in which they all live, see the pedigrees and pictures the breeder may want to show you, and don't be too shy to ask lots of questions. Since temperament should be an important consideration for you, do you think the breeder's Saluki have stable temperaments? They may be aloof and wary of strangers, but never nervous, panic-stricken, hostile, or aggressive. The breeder should give you the contact details of some of the homes where her puppies have been placed. It is a good idea to contact them, meet them, and ask further questions. An honest, reputable breeder welcomes thorough research such as this.

A reputable breeder will also probably mention a contract that provides for your Saluki if you are no longer able to keep it. It is also likely that the breeder will ask many questions about you, your family, your home, your pets and previous pets, your lifestyle, your work commitments, whatever. Don't be offended by such questions - reputable breeders are often more concerned about the Saluki's future welfare than your bruised ego! It's possible the breeder might even try to put you off owning a Saluki, telling you how difficult they are to raise and what a specialist's breed they are. She's probably doing this to weed out the potentially unsuitable. If you're still hanging in there after all that grilling, you're doing fine.

Be afraid... be very afraid...

After your initial contact with the breeder, you'll be able to define your impressions. Look elsewhere if

* the breeder doesn't want you to visit his/her home to meet the   Saluki

* Saluki are just one of many breeds that the breeder breeds

* there's a new litter of pups every couple of months

* the breeder doesn't have contact details of previous pups' owners

* the Saluki live in kennels or enclosures all day and have little human contact

* the Salukis' temperaments are questionable or even dangerous

* the breeder is not willing to take the Saluki back if you are unable to keep it

* the breeder is over anxious for you to buy a pup, or worse - more than one pup

* the breeder is offering a "special discount price"

* the breeder tries to encourage you to become a Saluki breeder because it is so profitable

* the breeder has little affinity with his/her dogs, or worse, if they are nervous of him/her

* the dam (mother) is younger than 2 years or older than 9 years, or has had more than 3 litters

* the breeder is not familiar with the breed standard, or who calls it "a load of unnecessary hogwash"

* the breeder doesn't belong to any Saluki or Hound organisations and is not a member of the country's canine governing body.

 

Materials are from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

So, you have made the commitment

 

The waiting game

Now you're on the breeder's waiting list and, to secure your commitment, you might be asked to pay a deposit. It is very seldom that a puppy will be available immediately - it is far more likely that you'll have to wait. The waiting period is actually a valuable cooling-off period (rather decide now that you're not suited to owning a Saluki, than ruin the little thing's life). The waiting period also allows you to get to know the breeder and her Saluki well, do as much research as possible on the breed, start meeting people who own Saluki, and take part in Saluki-oriented events.

The breeder should offer you plenty of sources for study, and should, herself, be a minefield of information. Don't be afraid to tap that knowledge - it's free and freely given! You'll probably be informed of all the milestones en route to your precious puppy's arrival - the whelping, their eyes opening, their first solids, their first games, their first bark, and so on. If you treat this as big an event as the breeder does, you will gain immense pleasure from the experience, and anticipation levels amongst the younger members of your family will be enormous.

The bad news is that if the litter is too small, there is a possibility that there won't be a puppy available for you. Sad... but one of the unpredictabilities of life. The breeder will most likely recommend another breeder, or you'll just have to settle down and wait for the next litter...

If all goes well, however, you'll discuss registration with the breeder and whether or not there will be any restrictions. You should also discuss the contract, the inoculation programme, the type and amount of food to feed, whether or not you'll be expected to spay or neuter the adolescent, and whether or not you'll want to show it. She'll probably also invite you to join one or more canine organisations. You'll discuss at what age you can fetch the puppy, or transport arrangements will be made. Puppies generally fly quite well (in an aeroplane, that is) and your breeder is accustomed to dispatching puppies safely this way, so don't worry!

Please take time to puppy-proof the house and garden before he arrives, ie. remove things that might be dangerous, such as wires and sharp objects, and don't forget to pack away the things that you want to protect from his needle-like teeth!  And beware, the young puppy is a pretty good escape artist, so close up the holes in the fence, too.

The big day arrives!

You'll probably arrange to collect or receive your puppy at between 8 - 12 weeks of age. If the puppy is travelling in from another country, the mountain of paperwork must be sorted out before its arrival (your breeder will guide you through all that). At home, you will already have the correct food, a set of bowls, some toys, and a comfortable bed for the new arrival.

Go to the airport or the breeder's house with a couple of towels, some newspaper, water, and a bowl. If you need to travel a distance, or you do not have a passenger to cradle the pup in the back seat, it's a good idea to take along a small crate (check size with the breeder). The items that you take along with you are to clean up any accidents that may happen en route.

Greet your new baby calmly. Chances are, he'll be very bewildered and, at this stage, is not likely to respond favourably to over-excitedness on your part. When the puppy kisses you on the face, the bonding will be complete and the emotion immense!

Why does it look so funny?

A Saluki pup looks very little like the grown-up version. At about 8 - 9 weeks old, your pup is still quite chubby and shows none of the adult's elegance. His feet will be quite big and floppy, and there will be discernible bumps above the front pasterns (wrists) - this is to allow for growth. The coat should be soft and shiny, and may have patches of "puppy fluff" on the thighs and shoulders - this falls out later. There will be no feathering yet, but you will be able to see slight hair growth at the elbows, behind the thighs, and on the tip of the tail. His ears will be all flop - very big and expressive with wavy curls on the flaps - and the eyes should be shiny and clear. As your puppy grows, he will go through some strange and gangly phases. For a while, his back end, for example, may be higher than the front end - but it levels out soon enough. A practised eye may be able to suggest more-or-less how a puppy's features may develop, but it is impossible to predict the outcome with any certainty. So, if you're hoping for a show winner or a lure courser par excellence, you'll just have to hope for the best and wait and see. There is absolutely no guarantee how a youngster will turn out. Hopefully, you will love your Saluki anyway...

 

Materials are from:  http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

The first few night at home

 

The puppy patrol 

Your baby has been wrenched from mum and littermates - he is definitely very confused and apprehensive, although he is probably already beginning to respond to your warm, loving vibes and your calm, reassuring tone of voice. It is a good idea to introduce him to one room and one person at a time, otherwise the world is just too bewildering. Gradually introduce the puppy to other pets in the home but don't expect love at first sight. The older pet will be curious, but will probably not stoop to show any interest. If you already own a Saluki bitch, it is very likely that she will drool profusely.... no, she doesn't want to eat the baby... this is purely maternal instinct.

Be prepared for a disturbed night. Regardless of where your Saluki will be spending the rest of his life, it is strongly suggested that you snuggle the little soul next to (or in) your bed for the night with a garment that you have just removed, which still contains your scent. Because a dog is a pack animal, your new puppy will look to you as the pack leader. Since packs eat, sleep and do things together, how do you expect the tiny baby - recently removed from its family - to understand why he has been suddenly banished to the kitchen? Once the puppy has settled into his new home, he will start to feel more confident in himself and will, of his own accord, choose to sleep in his own bed.

House training

House-training is usually the foremost priority with every new owner. Everyone wants the new puppy to be clean as soon as possible.  However, don't expect too much too soon. The puppy has to learn how to control its bowels, exactly like a child. It is unrealistic to expect 100 per cent cleanliness before about 6 months  if that seems too long, remember a child takes longer!

The golden rule in house training is to be pro-active rather than reactive. Remember that as soon as the puppy awakes, and immediately after eating, he will want to relieve himself. Be ready to take the puppy out instantly. Keep a watch for 'nosing' behaviour, which indicates that he is looking for a 'spot'. Stay outside with the pup, giving your chosen command to perform, eg. "Go potty", or whatever, in a gentle, reassuring tone, then give lots of excited praise and cuddles when he does. Eventually the pup will get the idea and will 'aim to please'.

It's not a good idea to give the puppy free reign of the whole house unless you have the time to follow him around wherever he goes. Rather restrict him to the area where you are working or relaxing. Please, never, ever rub the puppy's nose in his mistakes or shout at him and smack him. Anger will only make the puppy feel rejected, isolated and confused. You will double the time it takes to house-train him and you will have a nervous, puppy that is scared of you and doesn't know why it is not allowed to relieve himself. Be patient, and give love and understanding. Positive reinforcement always works far quicker and more effectively than negative punishment. There WILL be mistakes on your best carpet - that's the reality of having a puppy in the home! Just sigh and clean it up as quickly as possible and ensure that you remove the smell from the area to prevent him from going back to that spot. Try some of the excellent spot and odour remover products on the market, or use soda water and sanitised nappy wipes.

Car travel

It is a good idea to get your pup accustomed to car travel as soon as possible. If you have a passenger, allow this person to hold her while she is still tiny; allowing her free run of the car will make her nervous and it is extremely dangerous. Never allow the puppy to travel in the car with a choke chain and lead on, because she could get it caught in a door handle, for example, and the consequences can be disastrous. Keep ventilation in the car adequate and speak to her in a calming and reassuring voice.

A very young puppy may be sick the first few times, so be prepared with newspapers and paper towels. If you have continuing problems with car sickness, you may want to try a herbal remedy called "Rescue Remedy", which is available in liquid or tablet form from pharmacists or health shops. It has a calming effect on the puppy and is perfectly safe to use. It's also not wise to give the puppy food before embarking on a journey. Take comfort in the knowledge that your pup will outgrow her car sickness - strangely enough, especially after a long trip.

Occasionally, Saluki youngsters remain very fearful and stressed during car travel. Try to examine your behaviour during the trip. Are you apprehensive, irritable, tense, or angry - and do you think your feelings are being sensed by your youngster, who is also displaying anxiety? If a car trip is always a stressful event that leads to panic-attacks and/or car sickness, try to turn it into a pleasurable event. Play gentle music on the radio, talk calmly to your Saluki, stroke her gently, ignore the panic attacks and tantrums, and most importantly, make the destination a really exciting place - the beach, the park, and so on, and your troubles will soon be over.

Alone at home

Normally, you will not leave your Saluki alone at home for great lengths of time, but there are occasions when he must be left for a short while. The easiest way to reassure your pup that he has not been abandoned is to start with short periods away. Leave the property quietly, without any fuss - don't even look at the pup or say "Goodbye". No, you're not being cruel. Remember, your Saluki is a pack animal that responds to messages from the pack leader - in this case: you. In the pack, the leader simply gets up and goes: it doesn't ask permission, and it doesn't say fond farewells. Stay away for about fifteen minutes, then return in the same way - no fuss, no greeting, no eye contact, regardless of how eagerly the pup tries to attract your attention. This will be very hard for you to do because the urge is to make a fuss and show the puppy how much you missed him. Gradually increase the time spent away and very soon the pup will learn that you always come back. Not making a fuss will ensure that you don't have an unmanageable, jumping, whirling dervish to greet you, or a destructive, howling Saluki when you leave.

 

Materials are from:  http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/rum.homestead.com

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

Mealtime!

 

There are many varied and valid opinions on the most suitable diet for sighthounds. Some owners prefer to follow a natural diet of raw meat, cereals and vegetables, while others prefer to use premium-quality dog foods. Do remember that your Saluki puppy will have special nutritional requirements for the first year of her life while she is growing up, so a balanced diet with the correct nutrients in the correct amounts is essential. You should follow the breeder's recommendations and feed your puppy the same type of food in the same quantities to which she has been accustomed. Should you later decide to change the diet, you should do so very gradually to prevent upsetting the puppy's digestive system.

With regard to the feeding routine, you might want to consider the following:

*  Weigh your puppy regularly to monitor growth. If you feed one of the balanced premium-quality foods, the recommended daily allowance  is based on the puppy's weight. The variance allows for the puppy's activity levels - so a highly active Saluki may need the greater recommended amount. Monitor weight gain carefully.... if there is any sign of putting on too much weight, reduce the amount accordingly.

*  Divide the puppy's daily allowance into three portions (breakfast, lunch, and supper). Gradually, your puppy will ease herself out of the noon meal, then you can continue to feed two meals a day.

*  As the puppy grows, so do the legs, so it is very good practice to raise the feeding bowl to a comfortable height of about 30 - 40cms from the ground - a crate works fine.

*  It is a good idea to get the puppy accustomed to wearing a snood (a tube-like garment worn over the ears) at an early age to protect the ear fringes as they start to grow.

*  Stay with the puppy while she is eating - this way you can ensure that she eats her food as required and you'll be able to notice immediately if there is a loss of appetite.

*  Under no circumstances should you leave food down for the puppy to help herself during the day - this practice leads to all kinds of nutritional disorders and behavioural problems.

* If your puppy shows no interest in her food after about 10-15 mins, take it away. If it is a temporary loss of appetite, monitor her carefully. Avoid the temptation to fuss or force-feed, otherwise mealtimes could become a stressful, rather than pleasurable, experience.

*  Always have enough cool, fresh water down for your Saluki.

*  Avoid the temptation to feed table scraps and titbits other than those recommended by the breeder. You will not only be unbalancing your puppy's diet, but you could encourage eating disorders and bad habits.

*  Never supplement the diet with calcium and other additives when feeding one of the premium-quality processed dog foods. Doing so will unbalance the diet and cause nutritional problems.

*  Try to feed at the same time each day. A dog appreciates routine and does not need variety, like humans do!

Fussy eaters

A Saluki that becomes a fussy eater is extremely problematic. This behavioural problem often develops when a routine is not established or if the puppy has a nasty experience during a mealtime, such as other dogs threatening to eat her food, and so on. Some Saluki simply refuse to eat more than the barest minimum to keep them alive. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to deal with a Saluki that stares at her food without touching a morsel. Patience and a calm environment helps - showing frustration doesn't.

So, do you stand by fretfully and watch your puppy refuse food day after day, or do you try various other diets. Changing the diet frequently is very seldom very successful - the puppy only seems to become even more fussy! More success has been attained through putting the food down at regular times and maintaining a calm, pleasurable environment than any other method. Eventually, the puppy will eat, and while she may still not eat enough to put on weight, at least she eats! Fortunately, most Saluki youngsters grow out of this bad habit as they mature.

A full grown, healthy Saluki should have its hipbones showing slightly, and two to three ribs just visible beneath the skin.  The flesh should be firm, well muscled with no excess fat, and the coat should have a healthy sheen. If your Saluki doesn't fit this description - look at the diet!

Things to eat

Suitable titbits (given occasionally as a treat or reward) and allowable extras can include:

*  good quality dog biscuits (not too many - remember that waistline)

*  doggy chews and commercial bribes

*  sterilised cow hooves or pig's ears (excellent to reduce plaque)

*  very large marrow bones

*  raw chicken necks or wings

Things to avoid

*  chocolate

*  sharp bones

*  potato

*  raw egg white

 

Materials are from:  http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/rum.homestead.com

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

Hello, big wide world!

 

Play

Saluki puppies start to play with their litter mates as soon as they become more aware of their surroundings. Romping around the whelping box on legs that won't stay underneath them, they practise their fiercest growls and sharpen their newly-emerging teeth on each other. At this point, the dam frequently decides that enough is enough, and jumps out of the whelping box to observe the shenanigans from a safer vantage point. As they grow older, the games become positively violent in their frenetic energy. Every action, every move, is part of the learning and developing process as they acquire new life skills and establish themselves in the hierarchy. Just as suddenly as the gaming starts, it will abruptly end, as every youngster collapses in the communal heap to recharge their batteries for the next burst.

Young Saluki are naturally inquisitive, boisterous and full of mischief. Play is an essential part of the learning experience. A range of toys are essential so that the puppy has something with which to amuse itself during its play period.  Although there are many commercial toys on the market, Saluki are also rather fond of shredding newspaper or cardboard tubes, or even plastic bottles (with the tops removed).

Because the hunting instinct is very strong in Saluki, you may want to tie a piece of sheepskin to a thin rope. This you can drag around the garden - at great speed, of course - and encourage the little one to chase it. (Probably won't need much encouragement)

A Saluki's favourite toy is a fluffy wotsit. Unfortunately they don't last long because they're generally disembowelled within the hour, but do take care to remove the fluffy toy's plastic eyes before handing it over. Some Saluki like playing with a Buster Cube, which allows bits of kibble to fall out of a tunnel-like hole, encouraging the pup to keep rolling it around, trying to empty it of all its titbits.

Socialising

Socialisation is such an important part of a puppy's preparation that it cannot be over-emphasised. In Western society, we expect our Saluki to be sane and sensible members of the family unit. This attribute doesn't always come naturally, so we also need to teach the Saluki youngster how to accept the big, wide world.

Your breeder would probably have introduced the young puppy to a number of experiences, such as cars, people, and things that make noises. Now you need to take these early lessons a step further. A young Saluki puppy may be a little shy, but generally friendly and inquisitive. If your puppy is nervous or aggressive, you will have to work extra hard to socialise the little thing to normal life....but do it.

Start by finding out if there are puppy socialisation classes in your area. At these classes, members sit in a protective circle and allow the pups to romp with each other in the centre. It is an ideal opportunity for your Saluki pup to meet other youngsters and people in a friendly, non-threatening environment. Gradually, the pups are taught the basic principles of sitting, standing, lying, and coming when called. and they're also introduced to a number of human inventions such as umbrellas, buckets and spades, lawn mowers, brooms, raincoats, hats, etc. A trainer will watch the pups' body language closely and step in immediately to intervene in times of potential stress. If there is no such group in your area, why not get together with some like-minded people and start a group!

You need to take your pup out as often as possible, too. If supermarkets or malls allow dogs, take your Saluki for a short walk to see the goings on and meet people. Monitor the experience carefully, though - if the environment appears even slightly stressful for the little thing, rather come back and try again another day. It doesn't mean, however, that you should leave your Saluki in the hot car while you do your shopping!!!!

Taking your pup as a visitor to a dog show is an ideal opportunity for him to look around, meet people and sniff at other dogs. The kind of people you'll meet at dog shows are also very familiar with the socialisation process and they will be only too willing to gently stroke the youngster and talk to him as he wanders around (on a lead, of course) at your side.

Little by little, try to expose your Saluki youngster to as many different experiences as possible. With you at his side, he should gain confidence from your clear leadership and reassurance.

Exercise

Never be tempted to over-exercise your puppy within the first nine to twelve months of its life.  By all means allow it the freedom to run around your garden until it decides enough is enough, but don't allow an adult dog to run with it for too long as this will encourage the puppy to over-exert itself.  Don't take your Saluki puppy out for long walks until it is about 6 months old and limit the length of the walk.  The bones and muscles are still developing, and if a puppy is given too much exercise in the early months, long term problems can develop, such as deformity of tendons and ligaments.  It is difficult to specify exact amounts of exercise for individual dogs.  As a general rule never walk or run your hound into exhaustion - just try to take the edge off their energy.

Exercise is a different matter once your Saluki is an adult. The Saluki is one of the fastest animals on earth and possesses endurance that a Greyhound lacks. An adult Saluki needs plenty of exercise, both on the lead and off, to develop good muscle tone. Try to find a venue where your Saluki can safely run free - the beach, a large enclosed field, or sports fields. The sight of an adult Saluki doing what it likes best  running at full stretch, a large grin on its face, ears streaming behind, and the tail sweeping first one way and then the other like a rudder  is a joy to behold.

Avoid areas that are close to traffic and, of course, the Saluki must never ever, no way ever be let off the property alone to wander around the streets. Yes, she will find her way home, but maybe a car, a vicious mongrel, or a thief will find her first.

 

Materials are from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za


 

Learning to be a good citizen

 

Lead training

You can put a lightweight collar on your puppy and let her play around for a while. It is not a good idea to let a Saluki wear a collar all the time, because of the possibility of it getting caught and strangling the puppy. Turn the business of putting on a collar into a game, and after a few days, you can attach a light lead as well.

When you feel that your puppy is accustomed to the experience, you can begin by taking the other end of the lead and calling her to you while gently tugging the lead. She will probably buck at the new sensation - go with it, avoid tight pressure on the other side or it will frighten her. With patience and understanding you will be able to hold the lead without her panicking, then you can encourage her to respond to the lead, always using exciting call noises and treats. Eventually, she will be able to walk next to you on the lead - not very straight at first - but if she comes with you, half the battle is won.

Learning to behave

One thing is guaranteed - your Saluki puppy will find mischief... and it is a well-known fact that Saluki adolescents can be horrific if left to their own devices. As long as you are prepared for the worst, it shouldn't shock you too much when something gets chewed to shreds...

Because prevention is better than cure, it is important to puppy-proof your home and keep the untouchables untouchable. Shoes lying under the bed, for example, are inviting to be chewed. Take special care to hide all telephone and electric cables.

A bored Saluki puppy will find something to amuse itself - and that something could be your great-grandmother's antique tapestry. It is not a good idea to leave the puppy entirely to his own devices around the house. You need to observe and be pre-emptive in the selection of playthings. Keep the puppy interested in cow hooves, stuffed toys (with plastic eyes and nose removed), balls, doggy toys, empty plastic bottles and cans.

Please don't let your puppy become the master of the household. It is, in any case, too much of a responsibility for him and he will look to you to lay down the groundrules. In the wild, no pack leader tolerates disobedience or challenges, and neither should you. This doesn't mean that you should be harsh and forceful with your little Saluki - far from it. All discipline should be tempered with affection - and NEVER in anger. When the worst is over and there's been a sufficient 'cooling off' period, reassure him with a hug and a pleasant tone of voice. Next time, if he gets it right, heap on lots of praise and positive reinforcement.

As soon as possible, you should teach the pup the meaning of the word NO! This is normally delivered in a strong tone, and you may also find that a loud noise - such as clapping hands or a rolled-up newspaper against your legs - will help to alert the pup to the command. Make it clear that you mean it - there is nothing more deaf than a Saluki that feels like ignoring you! The secret to effective discipline is to catch him red-handed. You can use some really stern words, but don't overdo it! In extreme circumstances, you can give him a good shake about the neck as his mother would have done, and turn him onto his back in a submissive position.

NEVER punish a puppy after the crime. The pup has no memory of such a transgression and will not understand why he is being punished.

NEVER punish a puppy as soon as he returns to the scene of the crime if he is called. What are you doing? You're reinforcing that it is a bad idea to come when called!

NEVER give a Saluki a hiding - you will spoil the dog forever because he will never forget and will probably take it out on your prized possessions anyway! The last thing you want is a dog that is scared of you.

NEVER try to chase after a naughty Saluki puppy. Oh, what a wonderful game....! Or it could turn into a frightening experience to which no puppy should be exposed.

NEVER banish a Saluki puppy into isolation. A young puppy cannot associate isolation with punishment and it will cause trauma and anxiety.

Unlike a human, your puppy will understand perfectly that you will set the parameters for attention and petting. You can decide when you want to cuddle your puppy - call him to you and heap lots of praise on him for coming. It's not a bad idea to end a petting session before the pup gets bored with the attention. In other words, play hard to get so that you're constantly in demand.

Coming to call

Saluki are notoriously deaf when it suits them. Most times you will just have to put up with this trait and try not to work up your blood pressure! Besides, getting angry and showing irritation only makes matters worse. You will soon learn to time your calls so that they have maximum effect - in other words, don't waste your breath trying to call back a Saluki that is on a mission. He's not likely to listen to you, and the unheeded yelling will become entrenched in a bad behaviour pattern. Try to call when you sense he has finished his business and is most likely to respond - then, reward him with lots of praise and even a titbit or two. Generally a Saluki that doesn't want to be caught will run in circles around you, just out of reach.  Try not to lunge at him, no matter how strong the temptation!  A trick that works reasonably well is to walk away in the opposite direction. A Saluki hates to be ignored, so he will soon come galloping back to see why you are not entering panic mode. Gently and calmly hold the collar and heap praise and affection on him for coming back, even if you are at your wit's end. Never show irritation, and never yell or smack when he arrives. Do this, and the message he learns is that you become angry when he comes to you!

A tin of treats or biscuits is quite a useful magnet as well. Once your Saluki learns there are treats at the end of the run, a shake of the tin could stop him in his tracks.

Formal obedience training

Two words on this subject = highly advisable. No, you don't need to train him to be an Obedience Champion (unless you really want to), but you need to live with the dog, so the basic commands of Sit', 'Stay', and 'Come', etc, are essential. You can teach your Saluki puppy the groundrules and basic commands at home, but you'll find that a doggy training school teaches your youngster to socialise with other dogs and people. Don't believe people who claim that hounds are untrainable. Saluki require a gentler, more empathetic approach than, say German Shepherds do, but they are intelligent - if wilful - and can learn to do anything they believe to be important enough. Many Saluki have successfully completed their Obedience titles, as well as Agility, Dog Jumping, Carting, and even Tracking.

If you're planning on showing your Saluki in the breed classes, it is strongly advised that you attend ringcraft and socialisation classes as soon as your pup has had his last inoculation. These classes help to prepare the youngster for the strange goings-on around him in daily life and will accustom him to being handled by strangers and paraded in front of other dogs and people.

A reasonably obedient, responsive, well-socialised Saluki is an asset instead of a liability. Do take the training and socialising aspect of his growing up extremely seriously.

 

Materials are from: http://www.salukiforum.homestead.com/

Author Copyright: Joy McFarlane

fleetwind@yebo.co.za

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